Staining

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Staining furniture and woodwork is a popular alternative to painting. Often times staining gives a more regal or elegant look, and allows the natural textures and grains of the wood to show, whereas paint covers them up. Because staining is much like painting in that it protects wood from weather and damage, it is a viable option. So, let's explore staining a little further.

What are Stains?

Exterior stains have been around for over a hundred years. In the early stages of stains, they were simple used to protect and decorate wood roof and wall shingles. These types of stains were formulated with durable but toxic creosote bases. Painters would dip shingles into buckets of stain to ensure the best possible absorption into the wood and also to treat the backside of the shingle prior to installation. When inexpensive asphalt shingles replaced wood on roofs, staining sort of lost its status, but regained it in the 1970s with the advent of rough-sawn board and sheet siding. This involved a more modern stain type, which can be divided into two types:

Semitransparent stains have a low pigment-to-vehicle ratio, and are a translucent coating that allows the grain and texture of the fiber to show through. They are attractive on new wood, but offer little protection from the effects of UV exposure and must be renewed frequently. Often, exteriors that start out with semitransparent stain are eventually re-coated with solid stain or paint. If wood surfaces are allowed to weather for extended periods without re-coating, if they are darkened by water stains, or if weathered boards are randomly replaced, semitransparent stains may no longer provide an acceptable appearance.

Solid-color stain is a heavier bodied opaque stain that covers the grain of the wood but allows the texture to show. Solid-color stain is basically thin paint. It performs exceptionally well on new or old rough-sawn surfaces, but its use on the smooth clapboards and trim of older houses is a recent practice.

To Prime or Not to Prime?

Proper surface preparation is important for the best results for any finish, but is especially important for successful staining. To stain the exterior of a house that has previously been painted, you need to remove all old paint down to bare wood. Unpainted weathered wood that has not been painted for decades should be sanded to a sound substrate. This means sanding until the wood resembles the golden color of new wood.

Old paint can be removed by scraping, sanding, chemicals, heat guns and plates, or a combination of these methods. Stripped areas should not be exposed to the weather longer than necessary. It's best to prime or stain the day of stripping so the coating can bind to fresh wood fiber, not a dirty or oxidized surface.

Oil-based stains don't required priming. Two coats of solid-cover stain will block disfiguring stains (say, from rust) and provided a uniform coating. Priming is important, however, when top coating with water-based or acrylic stains. Priming seals tannin stains, water stains, and knots that often blemish water-based stains, especially those that are light colored. Whether you are using oil-based or water-based stain, you need to coat any potential sources of new rust stains, such as nails, with a rust inhibitor primer.

Exacerbating Problems

It is likely that when a homeowner considers staining their home rather than painting it is because of years of frustration with peeling paint and frequent repainting. However, what this homeowner needs to recognize is that if there are conditions in their house that prevent the success of a quality paint job, it's unlikely that stains will do any better.

So, if your reason for staining is frustration with paint, consider the conditions that adversely affect the life of an exterior coating including leaky or misaligned gutters, leaking roofs, ice dams, splash-back, excessive indoor humidity, and inappropriate or poorly installed materials. These problems and any others must be addressed before painters arrive on the scene.

Many people believe that stains will not peel. This is not true. If the film layer becomes excessively thick or stain is used over plain sawn siding, peeling will occur the same as with paint.

Regardless of whether you use paint or stain, enjoy the home improvement experience, and use the best quality products and materials you can find, such as those found on PaintingSuppliesDirect.com

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